For years, Christopher Raeburn has been collecting military curios. Now, for the first time, the designer shows the world the best of his collection
WEIRD WAR
War, huh, yeah
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, uhh
War, huh, yeah
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing
Say it again, y'all
War, huh (good God)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, listen to me, oh
Let’s get this straight from the off, Edwin Starr was right with his 1970s belter – war in all its guises is good for absolutely nothing. But this article isn’t about war at all, it’s a trope to innovation, curiosity, and the oddities that come when necessity (the mother of invention, as we well know) leads to innovations and concepts that challenge the boundaries of practicality – and even common sense. Throughout history, trillions has been spent as military strategies and equipment have evolved in line with technological advances, but often this evolution has taken strange, unexpected turns.
To give a little context, since leaving the Royal College of Art close to two decades ago, I’ve been fortunate enough to grow a business that works with an inordinate amount of military artefacts: parachutes, clothing, maps, Siberian sheepskin coats, anti-gravity trousers – you name it, we’ve worked with it and hopefully made (and remade) those original artefacts into contemporary clothing and covetable accessories. Whilst digging through all that old stuff, I’ve found some interesting things so over the next few pages we’ll shine a light on some of my favourite objects of curiosity, as we go down the weird war wormhole.
Japanese Ceramic Hand Grenades: A Pottery of War
While most people associate grenades with metal casings, during World War II the Japanese military used a peculiar variant made from ceramic. Known as the Tokko or ‘special purpose’ grenade, it was designed to be a cost-effective alternative to the metal variety. Japan's limited access to raw materials for manufacturing made ceramic a practical solution, but what I like most about this object is that in the right context, the inherent beauty is bewitching. In a military world, where uniformity is generally key, each of the grenades I’ve happened across has different colouration, glazing, and details.
Reflective Camouflage
The US military pinned a lot of their hopes from the late-1980s onwards onto digital camouflage patterns – there were of course plenty of acronyms as 2004’s ‘UCP’ (Universal Camouflage Pattern) was used in the Army's ‘ACU’ (Army Combat Uniform), before the whole thing was abandoned as the US moved back to an ‘OCP’ (Operational Camouflage Pattern), which is more effective in a wider range of environments. There are loads of fantastic books which have been written on camouflage and the crossover into menswear and popular culture, so we’re not going to go down that well-trodden path today, but I’d love to know why one US Army project led to training tops in reflective digital camouflage. Maybe I’ve missed something but surely you either need to be seen, or not?
Sheepskin Coats on the Western Front
I’ve always loved this unexpected image from the First World War. British Tommy soldiers wrapped up against the worst of winter with these coats, which were designed with pure function in mind – from the heavy woolen lining which trapped warmth, to the outer sheepskin layer which provided protection against rain and snow. The coats became an emblem of resilience in the face of cold and exhaustion; a testament to the British ability to adapt and survive in the face of the harshest conditions and the amazing silhouettes created was something we were only too happy to celebrate as part of one of our collections all the way back in 2014.
Hair Monkeys
Swiss mountain troop bags (better known as ‘hair monkeys’ due to their likeness to our primate pals) are crafted from durable cowhide, and are a unique blend of functionality and tradition. These rugged bags, designed for tough mountain conditions, were once used by Swiss soldiers in alpine terrain. Cowhide’s natural toughness made them perfect for carrying supplies across rocky landscapes. Today, these iconic bags are prized for their vintage charm and strength, but a closer look shows their incredible detail and quality, plus the use of unexpected materials like wood, nettles, and cotton in their construction.
Cartography of Time: Fabric Maps
Fabric maps, developed in the early years of World War I, were a revolutionary solution to the limitations of paper maps. These maps were made from durable materials like linen or cotton, which allowed them to withstand the rigors of the battlefield. Unlike paper maps, which could tear or become unreadable in the rain or mud, fabric maps could be folded, crumpled, and carried without compromising their integrity.
Fabric maps also proved invaluable in maintaining operational secrecy. They could be easily concealed or hidden within soldiers’ clothing or equipment, reducing the risk of them falling into enemy hands. The maps were often coated with a special ink or dye that was invisible under normal conditions, but could be revealed using heat or specialised light sources. This made them ideal for covert operations, allowing military leaders to coordinate large-scale strategies without revealing their plans to enemy forces.
German Military Folding Boxes
Looking for military-grade storage solutions? Zarges folding boxes are high-quality, versatile storage and transport solutions made in Germany. Known for their durability, these boxes are constructed from robust aluminum, offering resistance to corrosion and harsh environments. The folding design allows for easy storage when not in use, making them space efficient and it gets you thinking, are they a bit of incredibly complex German overdesign or a clever object that perhaps we could all make use of, I know which camp I’m in…
Snow Camouflage Ghillie Suit / Sasquatch / Wampa?!
Of all the unexpected military silhouettes, perhaps the Wampa-esque brilliance of the ghillie suit always delivers. Made from lightweight, weather-resistant materials, the suit provides stealth and protection in pretty much every environment. This homage to the original artefact was remade using original ‘Schneetarn’ (translated as snowy pines) ponchos, ripped into shreds and stitched. Handily, it can also double up as a fancy dress outfit if Chewbacca and co are in town.
War Wombles
These lads aren’t an official development from the Ministry of Defense, but more a reminder for us all to make good use of the things that we find, and the things that the everyday folks leave behind. Each of these Wombles has been hand-crafted in the 1970s and then outfitted by RÆBURN using off-cuts of the very same materials we use every day in the studio: parachute, maps, ponchos, camouflage, and the like. The way I see it, unfortunately militaries around the world are going to continue creating millions of items of uniform and hardware (we’ve barely scratched the surface with this article), so much like The Wombles, we’re going to carry on doing our best to use as much of the surplus as possible – while still digging deep to find the weirdness.
Christopher Ræburn
Founder & Creative Director, RÆBURN
